Review: Left Bank Bordeaux from Ch. Larrivet Haut-Brion and Ch. Olivier, 2020 Vintage

Discussions about the merits of Bordeaux’s Left Bank and Right Bank — separated by the Dordogne and Garonne rivers — are as old as modern winemaking itself. And while many will endlessly debate the quality of the two factions, there are some key differences in winemaking between the two regions.

When it comes to reds, both areas make blends using at least some of the five classic Bordeaux grape varieties. However, the Left Bank is known for leaning heavily on cabernet sauvignon, while the Right Bank is more egalitarian, with merlot typically taking the lead. If you’re trying to suss out whether a Bordeaux tasted blind is Left or Right Bank, looking for the signs of cab or merlot is usually your best first step.

As for white wines, they aren’t produced on the Right Bank — only the Left Bank makes these blends, which are built around sauvignon blanc, sémillon, and muscadelle. If you’re drinking White Bordeaux, it’s a Left Bank wine.

Today we’re looking at a pair of Left Bank bottles from the Pessac-Leognan region, 2020 vintage. Thoughts follow.

2020 Château Larrivet Haut-Brion Pessac-Léognan Rouge – A blend of 58% Cabernet Sauvignon, 29% Merlot, and 13% Cabernet Franc. In stark contrast to my earlier advice, the merlot influence is suprisingly  vivid on the nose, providing a purple, floral quality that offsets the more brooding, earthy character that awaits the drinker on the palate. A little punch of spice gives the wine a midpalate pop, but the finish is all gravel and a touch of dark creosote, where dark fruit and licorice notes finally come into clearer focus amidst all the savory earth. Amply tannic but far from blown out, it’s approachable now but will likely improve mildly over the next 2 to 3 years in cellar. B+ / $50

2020 Château Olivier Pessac-Léognan Blanc – A bright and shiny blend heavy on sauvignon blanc, this dry white features crisp notes of green melon, gooseberry, and a dollop of lemon curd which adds a cleansing citrus character. It’s not a complicated wine, but white Bordeaux is often a rather simple prelude to the region’s more complex reds, and this is no exception. A burst of minerals precede a smear of vanilla cream that finally winds things up. A- / $35

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