Review: La Maison & Velier Rums, Early 2024 Releases
La Maison & Velier continues to turn out high-quality rarities from all over the Caribbean and beyond. Today we look at a trio of newly available releases, each from a different part of the world — and, in this case, none from a Caribbean island.
All 700ml bottles.
El Amparo Rum – Pot still rum (amparo means “shelter” in Spanish) produced in Jipijapa, Ecuador from fresh Cubana Negra sugar cane juice. Bottled unaged and at still strength, this is the first batch of rum from a 60 year old distillery available in the U.S. Vibrantly tropical on the nose, then grassy and floral. Incredibly busy, moving into notes of overripe banana and the sharpness of young cane. Similarly complex on the palate, with elements of aggressively overripe fruit, spun sugar, and some not unpleasant hogo elements. Minty with a camphor edge on the conclusion. Vibrant, exciting, and quite wild stuff. 115 proof. A- / $52
Transcontinental Rum Line Single Cask Fiji 2012 – Bottled for the 5th year anniversary of LM&V, this single cask is pot still distilled molasses, aged in Fiji for 2 years, with 8 more years of aging in Europe. No additives. This is just good, old rum — boldly savory but infused with sweetness in the form of sweet tea, cola, and red plums. Oaky and rich, with layers of vanilla. Heavy-duty on the palate, showcasing its hearty abv alongside a leathery, tobacco-laced character. More black tea here, and some chalky creosote. The finish echoes gunpowder, mixed with a light raisin sweetness and just a hint of mango. Sugar is kept well in check here, letting the terroir do more of the talking. Fireside sipping rum, to be sure. 130.6 proof. A / $84
Beenleigh Rum 2013 – Founded in 1884, Beenleigh is Australia’s oldest operating distillery. Made from molasses in column and then a pot still, this vintage release was produced in 2013 and aged on-site in bourbon barrels for 10 years. No additives. Very exotic and unusual, unlike anything I’ve experienced in recent memory. Heavily savory and woody on the nose, with notes of anise, jasmine, and thyme providing a complex introduction. Increasingly camphorous on the palate, with an almost overbearing floral quality. Fruit arrives late and is quite restrained, with notes of apple and grapefruit melding with all the perfume and flowers in the mix. Lingering florals cling forever on the epic finish, wrapping things up with an almond punch, shells and all. 118 proof. B+ / $100
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