Review: Glengoyne 25 Years Old

Drew’s been on a Glengoyne kick of late — home of “the slowest stills in Scotland” — so I figured I should see what the fuss is all about for myself. Up next is the oldest expression from the distillery we’ve reviewed today, a 25 year old single malt aged exclusively in sherry casks for its entire aging time.

You would of course be well within your rights to presume this whisky would overload you with sherry from the get-go, but surprisingly that’s not the case. It is certainly nutty and leathery on the nose, layered with elements of fruitcake, dates, and some dried orange peel, but the effusive citrus of many a sherried single malt whisky is absent.

The palate is toasty and surprisingly savory, evoking toasted walnuts and coconut husks, vanilla sponge cake, and oatmeal cookies — a tasting note that Drew recently echoed in the 15 year old. Milk chocolate and almond notes emerge before a not insignificant tannic element comes to bear — growing considerably in power the more you sip. Chewy and a little chalky in body, the finish sees elements of nougat and some Christmas spice lingering. Absent throughout: Anything in the way of exuberant or even moderate fruitiness.

This may be a malt that is just starting to show its age — but that’s not a complaint, as the finished product shows itself as mature, refined, and surprisingly supple. Get it while there’s still a chill in the air.

96 proof.

A- / $600 / glengoyne.com [BUY IT NOW FROM RESERVEBAR]

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