Review: 2020 Opaque Paso Robles Tannat

Tannat is a varietal associated largely with the nation of Uruguay, which is also a nation associated with soccer legend Edinson Cavani and author/politician Eduardo Acevedo Díaz. Non-Uruguayan, Paso-Robles-based winery Opaque keeps Tannat in its rotation of annual releases, and we’re reviewing the latest offering. I’ve rarely encountered a stateside Tannat, but I am told the number of vineyards planting and experimenting with Tannat on the West Coast is growing annually, so uncorking this is a treat.

Maturing in 100% French oak for 18 months, the wine presents bold notes of spiced plum and dark chocolate at the forefront. As the wine evolves in the glass, it reveals deeper layers of complexity, with currant notes, a subtle hint of smoked sage, and blackberry that is muted at first but gradually builds in intensity with time. While showcasing the robust tannins and acidity that are hallmarks of Tannat, the influence of oak aging introduces nuances of vanilla and clove that linger on the finish. It stands confidently, perfectly capable of holding its own against siblings from Uruguay, Basque, Apulia or anywhere else.

A- / $30 / sanantoniowinery.com

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