Review: Rolling Fork Amburana Odyssey Rum

Rolling Fork is an indie spirits bottler that is focused on rum. Drew has looked at a few of its unique expressions in the past, and now we’re back with another limited edition release that is unlike anything else you’re likely to find on the market. The catch: Amburana oak aging.

Amburana Oak is a type of Brazilian wood that is seeing increasing use in spirits production… though it isn’t without some level of controversy, as the finished products can be polarizing, especially to purists. For this rum, Rolling Fork blended four casks of 9- and 11-year-old rum from Barbados’s Foursquare Distillery, all aged for six months in Amburana, along with some additional time in low-char bourbon and rye whiskey casks.

While this rum is definitely atypical, I’m not sure how polarizing it might be, as it’s quite a dazzler. The nose is intense not with the usual molasses and char elements but rather notes of coconut and baking spice, notes of gingerbread becoming dominant as the aromas build in the bowl of the glass. If you thought this was a spiced rum, I wouldn’t blame you at all. The coconut and spice notes kick things off on the palate but take a slight left turn as the underlying wood comes into clearer focus. A blend of fresh lumberyard and furniture polish kick things off — in only slightly jarring fashion — before a bold fruit element comes into play. Think cherry cola, followed by a bold punch of vanilla and mild chocolate, then freshly milled cedar planks. The finish is sweet but tempered with spice and toasted coconut, never hot even at its full proof of more than 60% abv.

Even if you consider yourself to be an Amburana hater, I’d urge you to give it a spin. Please report back.

120.6 proof.

A- / $100 / rollingforkrum.com

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